11 Buyers, 1 Store, 8000 Wines

Thursday, September 19, 2013

On 5:53 PM by Ben Wood   No comments
“Riesling with Richter: a Má Pêche Dinner”

   It is quite fashionable, in the wine world, for us professional types to play the "jaded

sophisticate" card - like Holden Caulfield with a tattoo fetish and a legitimized drinking problem.

Oftentimes, you'll hear complaints from pros about how traveling to European countries to visit

producers is no fun because it’s for business, with a rigid schedule; or that a tasting of elite Grand

Cru wines was overrun with too many people.

   Well, I say that these wine-specific opportunities are laced with the thing itself that we’re in The

Game for: to meet passionate people who make pleasure their life, and want to share it with other


   I had a chance, a few weeks ago, to experience some of that passion.  Dirk Richter of Weingut

Max Ferd. Richter was in town to promote his new 2012 wines, as well as share some older

vintages that he had brought from his cellar.

   Make no mistake: they were out to sell us wine (they succeeded), but more importantly to me, it

was dinner at má pêche with over two dozen world-class Rieslings, both new and old.

   Dirk Richter himself is a devilishly opinionated traditionalist.  At Richter, they make Riesling.

Period.  They make it very well.  Their vineyard plots are legendary; their history runs long (over

300 years).  Herr Richter is a force, and I got the (slightly nerve-wracking) honor of sitting next to

him.  He can tell story after story, laced with humor and information – a rare combination

   My senses were fired up, and running hot: a beautiful room; fragrant, exotic Rieslings; the

peripheral pleasure of good service swirling around; and the complex combinations of Chef de

Cuisine Johnny Leach’s food, with its bright colors and textural variations.

   I felt that heady, slightly swooning feel of wines working in concert, all the nuances of the

terroir, all the effort of the workers and the winemaker.

   All the things we’re here for, in the wine world; all the things that matter to us.  Sharing is caring.



Jonathan Jenkins 2013


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